Leading global fashion organisations have called on Saks Global to ensure fair treatment and payment for independent designers as the U.S. luxury retailer continues its restructuring process.
In a joint appeal, major industry bodies including the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the British Fashion Council (BFC), Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and France’s Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) urged Saks to prioritise smaller brands within its turnaround strategy.
The call comes amid growing concern that some emerging and independent designers may not receive payments for goods already delivered prior to the retailer’s bankruptcy proceedings earlier this year.
Saks Global filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in January 2026 as part of a broader effort to restructure its finances following mounting debt and operational challenges. The company secured a $1.75 billion financing package to support its recovery, but payment delays have continued to affect suppliers.
Industry groups warned that delayed or unpaid invoices pose a significant risk to smaller fashion businesses, which often rely heavily on wholesale partnerships with major retailers. Unlike large luxury brands, independent designers typically lack the financial reserves needed to absorb prolonged payment delays.
The organisations said that withholding payments could disrupt production cycles, impact payroll obligations and threaten the long-term viability of emerging labels that play a key role in driving creativity and innovation within the fashion industry.
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The joint statement reflects growing international concern over the financial pressures facing independent designers, particularly as global retail conditions remain uncertain and department store models undergo structural changes.
Saks Global has acknowledged limitations on making certain payments due to legal requirements under bankruptcy proceedings, but said it is working to rebuild relationships with brand partners and restore confidence across its supply base.
The retailer has resumed shipments with hundreds of brands and reached agreements with a number of suppliers as part of its restructuring efforts. However, industry observers say restoring trust among smaller designers will be critical to the company’s long-term recovery.
Analysts note that independent brands are particularly vulnerable during retail restructurings, as payment hierarchies in bankruptcy cases often prioritise secured creditors and larger stakeholders, leaving smaller vendors exposed.
The situation has also highlighted broader structural challenges within the fashion wholesale model, where designers frequently depend on timely payments from retailers to finance production and business operations.
Industry experts say ensuring fair treatment of suppliers will be essential not only for Saks Global but also for maintaining the health of the wider fashion ecosystem.
Independent designers are widely seen as a driving force behind innovation, diversity and cultural relevance in the global fashion industry. Their ability to operate sustainably depends on reliable commercial partnerships and equitable financial practices.
The fashion councils said their coordinated action is intended to demonstrate international solidarity and reinforce the importance of supporting emerging talent during periods of market disruption.
As Saks Global moves forward with its restructuring plan, the outcome of its engagement with independent designers could have wider implications for how retailers manage supplier relationships in an increasingly volatile global fashion market.
