Garment shipments destined for global fast fashion retailers are piling up at airports across South Asia after escalating conflict in the Middle East forced widespread airspace closures and airline cancellations, disrupting one of the world’s most important clothing supply chains.
Manufacturers in Bangladesh and India say consignments meant for European retailers such as Zara owner Inditex and other fashion brands have been stranded for days after Gulf airlines including Emirates, Qatar Airways and Etihad suspended or sharply reduced flights. The sudden halt has created severe cargo capacity shortages and pushed air freight costs sharply higher.
South Asia is a major hub for fast fashion manufacturing, supplying a constant stream of T-shirts, dresses, denim and other garments to retailers in Europe and North America. The industry relies heavily on air transport when brands need rapid delivery to meet tight retail timelines. The disruption therefore threatens to slow the flow of merchandise to stores during a period when many retailers depend on quick inventory turnover.
Manufacturers say the bottleneck became apparent soon after airlines halted operations through key Middle Eastern transit hubs.
“Some of my apparel consignments are currently stuck at Dhaka airport,” said Shovon Islam, managing director of Bangladesh-based Sparrow Group, whose clients include Inditex, Marks & Spencer, Next and Primark.
According to Islam, several shipments that were scheduled to travel from Dhaka to the United Kingdom via Dubai have been delayed indefinitely after operations at Dubai International Airport were suspended amid regional security concerns.
“We are now in a very difficult position,” he said. “We are trying to find alternative routes, but none of them are simple or cost-effective.”
The closures follow intensifying hostilities across parts of the Middle East that have led several countries to shut large portions of their airspace. The disruption forced airlines to cancel flights or reroute aircraft away from the region, while Dubai, the world’s busiest international aviation hub, temporarily suspended many operations.
Because the Middle East functions as a central crossroads for global aviation, the shutdown has had ripple effects far beyond the conflict zone.
Much of South Asia’s export cargo travels through Gulf hubs using passenger aircraft that carry freight in their cargo holds. Logistics experts say this reliance makes the region particularly vulnerable when flights through the Gulf are disrupted.
Frederic Horst, managing director of logistics consultancy Trade and Transport Group, said Gulf airlines play an outsized role in moving cargo out of South Asia.
More than half of Bangladesh’s air cargo typically transits through Gulf carriers, while about 41% of India’s air freight also relies on those routes, he said. Emirates and Qatar Airways are among the most important carriers for exporters in the region.
Also read: Middle East Conflict Fears Mount Over Bangladesh Export Logistics
With dozens of flights cancelled, exporters are now scrambling to secure space on alternative airlines or find longer routes through other hubs. However, limited capacity means many shipments remain stranded at airports or factories. As a result, freight costs have surged.
Alexander Nathani, managing partner at Mumbai-based Kira Leder, which manufactures leather jackets for Inditex and Austrian retailers, said shipping costs have risen sharply within days.
“Freight charges have doubled,” Nathani said. “The whole freight capacity is being blocked now on the airlines that are flying, so prices are increasing.”
Nathani added that one shipment from Pakistan remains stuck at a factory while another consignment from Mumbai is scheduled to fly to Austria on Swiss International Air Lines, provided the flight operates as planned.
The disruption highlights the scale of South Asia’s importance to global fashion supply chains.
Inditex alone had 150 suppliers in Bangladesh, 122 in India and 69 in Pakistan according to its 2023 annual report, illustrating how heavily international brands depend on the region for production. The company did not immediately comment on the impact of the current disruptions.
Retailers say the majority of their shipments usually travel by sea rather than air, which may help limit the immediate impact on store inventories. However, air freight is widely used for urgent orders or high-value products, meaning delays could still affect fast fashion’s rapid product cycles.
Industry leaders warn that the crisis could deepen if instability spreads to maritime shipping lanes.
Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said the suspension of flights through Middle Eastern airspace is already creating serious challenges for exporters.
“The suspension of cargo flights due to airspace closures in the Middle East is disrupting air shipments,” Hatem said.
He added that if tensions escalate and the Strait of Hormuz, which is a key shipping route between Iran and Oman, faces restrictions, sea freight costs could also rise significantly.
That scenario would create a double shock for exporters already dealing with higher transport costs and shipping delays.
“All in all, we are worried,” Hatem said. “We can see another major crisis ahead.”
For garment exporters in South Asia, the coming weeks will be critical. If air routes remain disrupted, manufacturers may be forced to absorb higher logistics costs, delay shipments or renegotiate delivery schedules with retailers.
Until flights through the Middle East resume normal operations, the region’s fast fashion supply chain, built on speed and efficiency, will remain under pressure.
