Bangladesh’s textile and apparel industry has evolved from a locally driven sector into one of the world’s most influential manufacturing hubs. Behind this transformation are industry leaders who not only witnessed change but actively shaped it. Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser, Chairman of the Textile Innovation Exchange (TIE), is one such figure. He is also the Convener of the Institution of Textile Engineers & Technologists (ITET), Bangladesh.
With a career spanning from the pre-export era of the 1980s to today’s innovation-driven landscape, his experience reflects the industry’s full trajectory—covering early polyester processing, pioneering technical developments, the rise of export-oriented manufacturing, global compliance transitions, and now, the push toward structured innovation.
In this in-depth conversation with Fashion Business Journal (FBJ), he shares a comprehensive perspective on the industry’s evolution, existing gaps, future competitiveness, and how TIE aims to institutionalize innovation across Bangladesh’s textile ecosystem.
FBJ: Please share about your career journey and Bangladesh textile industry’s significant turning points.
Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser: I started my textile career in 1984 at Phoenix Fabrics, which was then one of the leading polyester processing factories in Bangladesh. At that time, Bangladesh had not yet entered the garment export market. The entire textile sector was focused on the local market, primarily serving hubs like Islampur and Madhabdi, where traders would source processed fabrics.
During those early years, we worked extensively with 100% polyester fabrics, including lawn and georgette. We were among the pioneers in introducing georgette fabric for sarees. I recall that high-twisted polyester fabrics—around 2400 to 2800 twists per inch—were woven at Shofi Processing in Gazipur and then brought to us for dyeing, processing, and finishing. These products had strong market demand.
We also undertook several innovative developments for that time. For example, we worked on burnout printing, which was then a novel concept in Bangladesh. We replicated fine Japanese “Toray”-type fabrics by dissolving the cotton portion from 65/35 blended fabrics, achieving a unique finish. We also introduced cationic dyeing in Bangladesh for the first time.
Another important contribution was in the mosquito net fabric segment. While knitting was done elsewhere, proper finishing was a major challenge. At Phoenix, with advanced European machines, we were able to successfully finish polyester and nylon mosquito net fabrics, helping develop what is now a significant market.
A major turning point came in the early 1990s, when Bangladesh began its journey into garment exports. Around 1992–93, as demand for export-quality fabrics increased, we shifted from local market production to export-oriented manufacturing.
In 1993, I joined Esquire Group, where Bangladesh’s first automated yarn dyeing project was established. At that time, it was the only fully automated facility in the country. From there, we expanded into fabric dyeing and supported the growing garment export sector.
During my tenure, we achieved several key milestones. Square became the first company in Bangladesh to receive OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification in 1995, followed by GOTS certification in 1998—initiatives I led. We also established the first factory-level accredited laboratory in Bangladesh, reducing reliance on external labs like SGS and Bureau Veritas, and gaining direct trust from international buyers.
Under my leadership, the Sclavos dyeing machine was introduced in 1995, marking a significant step forward in adopting advanced dyeing technology. I also hold professional certification on Sclavos dyeing systems, reflecting my hands-on expertise and technical proficiency in this area.
Later, industry incidents such as the Tazreen Fashions fire and the Rana Plaza collapse brought compliance and safety to the forefront. With the introduction of the Accord, we ensured full compliance certification under my leadership.
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Overall, major turning points include the shift to export orientation, adoption of global certifications, development of in-house testing capabilities, compliance transformation, and advancement in technical finishing. Today, Bangladesh is capable of producing highly complex fabrics with advanced properties such as moisture management, dimensional stability, fire resistance, and waterproofing—achieved through continuous testing and innovation.
FBJ: Bangladesh has grown into a global textile powerhouse—what gaps still exist in technical expertise and innovation?
Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser: The key gap lies in both technical expertise and mindset.
Although factories have invested in advanced machinery, initially there was a significant gap between machine capability and operator readiness. Many relied on manual practices instead of fully utilizing automated systems, which led to inefficiencies in process control.
This situation has improved considerably, but opportunities still exist to enhance advanced technical skills, process optimization, and innovation-driven thinking. Today, access to knowledge is no longer a limitation. With digital platforms and open resources, professionals can continuously upgrade themselves—provided they have the willingness to learn.
The industry must focus on building a culture of curiosity, continuous improvement, and technical excellence.
FBJ: Bangladesh is known for its cheap labour and cheap resources. But, what should be the competitiveness of the industry right now to stay competitive in the global business?
Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser: In reality, the idea of cheap labor and inexpensive raw materials is no longer applicable to Bangladesh’s garment industry. While this may have been true at one time, Bangladesh can no longer depend on low-cost labor or inputs as its primary source of competitiveness. Cost-based advantage is no longer sufficient; the industry must now transition toward innovation-driven competitiveness.
Key focus areas include:
- Product diversification
- Innovation-led development
- Multi-fiber applications beyond cotton
- Increased use of man-made fibers
- Advanced finishing and value addition
There is strong global demand for man-made and blended fabrics, especially in segments like womenswear. Innovation in washing, finishing, and embellishment can significantly enhance product value.
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Historically, the industry has been buyer-driven, relying on provided samples. However, proactive innovation is essential. At Esquire, we established one of the first design studios in a knit composite mill and engaged international expertise in fashion and design.
We brought in a renowned designer from Norway—recognized among the world’s top designers—on a highly competitive package. Under her leadership, we formally developed and structured our design studio, supported by both local talents and an Indian designer working alongside the team.
This enabled us to continuously create new and innovative developments, further strengthened by the strong support and positive mindset of our factory leadership. This enabled us to develop our own samples, many of which secured large-scale orders—including one instance of a 300,000-piece in a single style order from Bestseller.
To remain competitive, Bangladesh must embrace innovation as a core capability rather than an occasional effort.
FBJ: What is the primary mission of TIE, and how does it will support textile and apparel industry in Bangladesh?
Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser: The mission of the Textile Innovation Exchange (TIE) is to build a structured, collaborative, and scalable innovation ecosystem for the textile and apparel industry.
TIE aims to go beyond individual factory improvements. Our goal is to work with at least 50 factories and train 500 to 800 mid-level professionals in innovation practices. The core concept is “exchange”—where innovations, improvements, and best practices from one factory can be shared across others.
We are creating a platform that connects industry, academia, and professionals, ensuring that innovation becomes systematic rather than isolated. Ultimately, TIE is focused on building a strong, unified foundation for long-term industry advancement.
FBJ: What are the key programs or initiatives currently led by TIE under your leadership?
Engr. Ehsanul Karim Kaiser: TIE is implementing several structured initiatives to drive innovation across the industry:
- Development of innovation culture at factory level
- Textile Innovation Expo (to be held at International Convention City Bashundhara on November 12, 13, 14 November)
- Textile Innovation Awards
- Research conference and publication under a dedicated research wing
- Assessment of self-readiness index of the factories
These initiatives are designed to recognize innovation, encourage collaboration, and create a continuous development ecosystem for the industry. Our objective is to ensure that Bangladesh’s textile sector transitions from a cost-driven model to a globally recognized innovation-driven leader.
