Scientists at Washington University in St. Louis have developed a new class of recyclable protein-based textile fibers that could help tackle two of the fashion industry’s biggest environmental problems mounting textile waste and microplastic pollution in oceans.
The breakthrough, published in the journal Advanced Materials, comes from the laboratory of Fuzhong Zhang at the university’s McKelvey School of Engineering.
The global textile industry generates enormous waste each year, while only around 12% of fiber materials are currently recycled. At the same time, synthetic garments made from polyester and other petrochemical-based materials continuously shed microplastics during washing, contributing heavily to marine pollution.
Researchers say that even improved recycling systems cannot fully solve the issue because conventional synthetic fibers are difficult to recycle repeatedly and continue releasing persistent plastic particles throughout their lifecycle.
To address this challenge, the research team created a biodegradable and recyclable material known as SAM, short for silk-amyloid-mussel protein hybrid. The material is produced through synthetic biology techniques using genetically engineered microbes grown in industrial bioreactors, similar to fermentation systems used in brewing.
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By combining genetic sequences inspired by spider silk, mussel foot proteins and amyloid proteins, the scientists engineered fibers that balance durability, water stability and recyclability.
According to Zhang, the engineered fibers can dissolve within seconds in a formic acid solution while remaining stable and strong during regular use and exposure to water.
Formic acid is already widely used across industrial sectors including leather processing, textile dyeing and cleaning, making the process potentially compatible with existing manufacturing infrastructure.
Unlike many recycling systems that weaken materials over time, the SAM fibers can be repeatedly dissolved and remade while maintaining consistent mechanical strength.
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The research team said the innovation was inspired by nature’s ability to create strong yet adaptable protein structures. Mussel-derived sequences help control dissolvability and prevent shrinkage when wet, while spider silk and amyloid structures provide tensile strength and help reconnect polymer chains after recycling.
The scientists also demonstrated that recycled proteins from the fibers can be repurposed into adhesive hydrogels for other industrial or biomedical applications before being recycled again into fibers.
The development is part of broader efforts by Zhang’s lab and the Synthetic Biology Manufacturing of Advanced Materials Research Center to create sustainable alternatives to petroleum-based materials.
Earlier research from the same group explored muscle-inspired biomaterials, synthetic spider silk and biodegradable adhesives with applications ranging from activewear to biomedical implants and agriculture.
Researchers believe the technology could eventually support a closed-loop textile manufacturing system, where fibers are continuously reused instead of discarded after short product lifecycles.
Although biomanufacturing remains costly, the team argues that repeated recyclability could significantly lower long-term production expenses and make sustainable biomaterials more commercially viable beyond luxury applications.
