The ZDHC Foundation on Thursday launched Version 4.0 of its Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL), adding 16 chemicals and setting defined PFAS contamination limits for the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industries.
Unlike restricted substances lists for finished goods, the MRSL targets chemicals at their source, keeping hazardous substances out of production.
The update, independently assessed by the ZDHC MRSL Council, covers bisphenols, formaldehyde, polychlorinated biphenyls and certain UV absorbers, which pose risks including endocrine disruption, carcinogenicity and aquatic toxicity. It also lowers limits for alkylphenol ethoxylates, chlorinated paraffins and some organic solvents.
Three substances joined the candidate list for monitoring, two moved to the archive list, and titanium dioxide was removed after its regulatory classification changed.
The council also drew on developments in persistent organic pollutants and substances of very high concern lists, input from the ZDHC Chemical Watchlist, and a stakeholder review.
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For PFAS, unintentional contamination is capped at 25 micrograms per kilogram for individual substances, 250 micrograms for the sum of PFAS and 50 milligrams for total fluorine. Intentionally added PFAS are not permitted in conformant chemical formulations.
“We have added some significant harmful chemicals,” said Phil Patterson, chair of the ZDHC MRSL Council.
The release also updates formulation limits, analytical methods and material-specific guidance covering textiles, leather, rubber, foams and adhesives, with tailored information for suppliers, chemical formulators and testing organisations.
ZDHC published a PFAS position paper that uses the OECD’s 2021 definition and opposes intentional PFAS use across the supply chain. It also explains how to separate intentional use from contamination despite limits in current testing methods.
The foundation said it will build on existing certification schemes and available evidence rather than create duplicate requirements, and a defined transition will help brands, suppliers, formulators and testing bodies adapt formulations, testing and certification.