Bangladesh is stepping up efforts to revive its historic Dhakai Muslin, targeting the global luxury textile market through scientific research, traditional craftsmanship and expanded production capacity, as the country seeks to diversify its textile exports beyond conventional ready-made garments.
The revival of the centuries-old fabric, once prized by royal families and international traders, has entered a new phase following the recovery of its distinctive cotton variety and traditional yarn-making techniques. The government is now focusing on improving cotton yields, strengthening production methods and transferring the technology to private entrepreneurs to support commercial expansion.
The initiative is built around Phuti Karpas, a rare cotton variety historically cultivated in the Meghna river basin. Its exceptionally fine fibres were essential to producing the lightweight, translucent fabric that made Dhakai Muslin internationally renowned.
During the Mughal period, premium varieties such as Malmal Khas were reserved for royalty. Other varieties carried distinctive names, including Ab-e-Rawan, meaning flowing water, and Shabnam, meaning morning dew.
The industry declined during British colonial rule as machine-made textiles from Manchester expanded across the region, undermining traditional handloom production. The disappearance of Phuti Karpas cultivation further weakened the industry, eventually pushing the original muslin-making techniques towards extinction.
Led by Professor Manjur Hossain of Rajshahi University, researchers collected 39 wild cotton varieties from different parts of Bangladesh. They examined historical botanical records, including works by Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus, and compared genetic evidence with original muslin samples preserved at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum.
The research enabled the identification and cultivation of the cotton variety associated with traditional Dhakai Muslin. Researchers also recreated more than 50 specialised tools required for spinning and weaving the delicate fabric.
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The first phase produced 58 pieces of muslin, including 27 sarees, demonstrating that the traditional production techniques could be recovered. The yarn reportedly achieved counts ranging from 731 to 750, significantly finer than ordinary cotton yarn, which generally ranges between 40 and 80 counts.
A second phase, launched in March 2025 with a budget of Tk 18.50 crore, is expected to continue until mid-2027. The programme aims to improve Phuti Karpas varieties, increase cotton yields, enhance yarn quality and establish a more reliable supply chain for commercial production. Contract farming initiatives are also being pursued in areas including Kapasia, Rajshahi and Cumilla.
Beyond technological recovery, the initiative has created employment opportunities for rural women. A total of 327 women have received training in traditional yarn spinning, including around 300 who previously had no independent income from paid employment.
Some trained workers earn up to Tk 550 per day, while experienced trainers can earn more than Tk 16,000 monthly. The production facility, Dhakai Muslin House, established in Tarabo, Rupganj, serves as both a manufacturing centre and a platform for preserving traditional craftsmanship.
Bangladesh’s commercial ambitions are also gaining international attention. Dhakai Muslin received Geographical Indication recognition in 2020, strengthening its identity as a textile associated with the country. Luxury fashion brands in the United States, France and Japan have reportedly expressed interest in the revived fabric. An international order for 500 yards has also been completed, according to published reports.
However, high production costs remain a major obstacle. A finely woven muslin saree can require two to four artisans working for several months, with initial production costs estimated at around Tk 360,000 per piece. The project aims to reduce costs to between Tk 100,000 and Tk 300,000 as production efficiency improves.
Unlike mass-produced garments, Dhakai Muslin is expected to compete primarily in the premium luxury segment, where craftsmanship, exclusivity and cultural heritage can support higher prices.
For Bangladesh, the revival represents an opportunity to build a new export category beyond its established ready-made garment industry. If the country can secure consistent cotton supplies, maintain quality and attract private investment, its historic textile heritage could become a commercially valuable asset in the global luxury fashion market.