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AGI Denim Trials Archroma’s Dye Process Cutting Water Use by Up to 97%

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Image: AGI Denim

AGI Denim is exploring a single-step dyeing technology from Archroma through its TOMORROWLAB concept, as the denim maker looks for ways to cut water and energy use without narrowing its creative range.

The technology, called InOneGO, uses Archroma’s Diresul RDT dyes in a continuous pad-and-dry process that removes the need to wash fabric after dye application, AGI Denim said in a LinkedIn post. The company said its focus is on understanding how more efficient dyeing can support creative denim development at industrial scale.

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InOneGO combines coloration, fixation and softening in one pad-dry application, according to Archroma. It is designed for woven cellulosic fabrics, including denim, and runs on stenter and thermosol lines, which could allow mills to adopt it without buying dedicated machinery.

Archroma said assessments using its ONE WAY Impact Calculator showed reductions of up to 97% in water consumption, 65% in energy use and 75% in carbon dioxide emissions, while cutting processing time by as much as 81%. The results were benchmarked against conventional cold pad-batch reactive dyeing with a pigment top-dye finish and included an easy wash-down effect. The figures are Archroma’s own calculations.

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Achieving a washed-down look conventionally requires multiple washes, with extra water and energy needed at each stage, said Julio Perales, technical and product segment manager at Archroma Textile Effects. InOneGO delivers the same distressed character in one step with no trade-off in fastness, even after wash-down, he said.

The process works with Diresul RDT, a range of pre-reduced, low-sulfur liquid dyes, as well as Archroma’s EarthColors and FiberColors biomass-based sulfur dyes. Performance finishes can be added in a second processing step where required, Archroma said, leaving conventional industrial routes largely intact. Archroma said the combination produces shades from earthy tones and deep blues to dark blacks. AGI Denim said the approach offers a chance to widen denim’s color possibilities, from deep blacks and earthy tones to blues and distinctive wash-down effects.

Commercial use has already begun elsewhere. Archroma and Portuguese home textiles maker Lameirinho said in September that InOneGO had moved into commercial production, with a bedlinen collection featuring indigo denim looks, washed-down effects and vintage finishes now sold worldwide. Lameirinho innovation and development manager Jorge Leitao said the technology brought denim-style depth to home textiles while simplifying processing.

AGI Denim did not disclose a timeline, volumes or commercial plans for the technology, and its post did not say which collections might use it.

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