Denim finishing specialist SOKO is using this year’s Kingpins Amsterdam to showcase experimental projects that combine digital technology with traditional craftsmanship, as suppliers look for ways to stand out in a crowded denim market.
Rather than presenting a conventional list of product launches, the company has organized its presence around four projects that it says are designed to redefine what finishing can achieve on denim. SOKO described the approach as a push beyond basic development toward genuine creative experimentation.
One highlight is SOKO Shadow, a color technique that exploits dye-resistance and color migration to create strong contrasts and vintage-inspired tones. The process emphasizes seams and pockets and, according to the company, does not rely on harsh discharge chemicals. In the version on show in Amsterdam, SOKO paired Shadow with laser and ozone technologies, which it said added visual depth and a sense of movement to the fabric.
A second project targets texture. Resoko Underglass applies a transparent, glass-like shine to denim, producing a smooth, soft material with a refined, leather-like feel. SOKO said the finish is intended to turn classic garments into more elevated, contemporary pieces. The announcement did not disclose commercial availability or pricing for the finishes.
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The third project, NATURALLS, is a collaboration between Avalo, The LYCRA Company, Neela and SOKO, with creative direction from designer Gordon Muir of Labor Made Inc. The collection draws inspiration from authentic workwear and from the people who cultivate textile fibers, and is presented as a vision of next-generation denim. It brings together low-impact cotton, renewable fibers and SOKO’s HYDROGEL and RARE finishing technologies, with the partners saying each detail reflects a more responsible approach to the craft.
The showcase reflects wider momentum in the denim supply chain, where mills and finishing houses face pressure from brands to cut chemical use and resource consumption without sacrificing aesthetics. Laser and ozone finishing have become established tools for reducing water and chemical inputs, and suppliers increasingly pair them with new dye and coating techniques to differentiate their offerings.
Collaboration is also becoming a defining feature of sustainability efforts in the sector. By combining fiber producers, fabric specialists, a finishing house and an independent designer, NATURALLS illustrates how partners across the chain are working together to bring lower-impact materials to market.
Kingpins Amsterdam is one of the denim industry’s main trade shows, drawing mills, brands and designers to review upcoming fabrics and finishing trends.